The first thing that you notice from the mainland side of the Menai Bridge is the town of Porthaethwy, or Menai Bridge as it is known to English-speakers. With a population of just under 4000, it is the third-largest town on Ynys Mon.

It's suspected that there was a settlement here back before Roman days. Excavations have uncovered some Bronze Age relics but nothing of particular significance. The town does however have a claim to historical fame, in that a battle was fought here in 1194. The Civil War that broke out in Gwynedd after the death of Owain Gwynedd in 1170 reached a conclusion when Owain's grandson Llywelyn ap Iorwerth Drwyndwn defeated his own uncle (and Owain's son) Rhodri, who was supporting his weak brother Dafydd ap Owain who was ruling Gwynedd up until a series of victories by Llywelyn in 1194, who then assumed the throne.

Television addicts in the audience might recognise the town from the silver screen. It's actually the setting of the children's TV programme "Rownd a Rownd" on S4C, the Welsh Language television channel. In fact, if you walk around the town (something I'll be doing next time I come when I hope I'll have more time) you'll keep stumbling over fake shop facades and the like.

But one thing you won't see is the palace of the Bishops of Bangor at nearby Glyn Garth. You may not believe this, but it is a fact that not so long ago the palace was demolished so that a block of flats could be built on the site.

But there's still a fair amount to see in the town and immediate neighbourhood. There's the church of St Tysilio which, we are told, dates from the 14th Century. How much of it dates from that period is not said, but I'd be surprised if it were very much. Victorian philanthropists and benefactors had a habit of engaging architects to "improve" older churches in a style that became widely known as "Victorian Grotesque". Oh for an original Saxon tower!

There's also a butterfly paradise here. I shudder to think what that might be.

But if you do decide to come here to have a look around for yourselves, try to be here on 24th October, for that is "ffair Borth", the annual fair that is held here and which overwhelms the town. But bring an umbrella, for the fair is traditionally noted for its ... er ... inclement weather.

The key to the town is of course its waterside situation and in the late Middle Ages as it became more of a custom to travel, the town began to emerge as an important ferry port for the mainland. In the 19th Century a local inhabitant by the name of Richard Davies set up a base here for his fleet of ships which worked all around the world.

But as ships grew in size in the early 20th Century, the town's commercial shipping and Davies' fleet in particular dwindled away to nothing. Attention then switched to the tourist trade and pleasure steamers from the Lancashire towns were enticed here.

That trade too has dwindled away and nowadays it's the pleasure yacht and cabin cruiser that are anchored in the Strait.

The only large vessel anchored at St George's Pier these days is the "Prince Madog". This is a research vessel belonging to Bangor University's School of Ocean Sciences just a few miles down the road on the mainland side. I went to Bangor University in the mid-70s as it happens. Not for studying purposes, it should be said, but to spend time with a couple of young ladies with whom I was associated during this period, and to stand on the terraces at Farrar Road in the heady days of the Northern Premier League.

Before we leave Porthaethwy, it's a good idea to have a good long look eastwards along the coast of Mainland Wales because some of the views can be spectacular.

Away in the distance we can clearly see the Great Orme, a rocky promontory that juts out into Liverpool Bay at the mouth of the River Conwy. The other side of the rock, well-sheltered in the bay, is the town of Llandudno, holiday destination of the British middle-class and retirement home of many a former civil servant.

A little further round in the bay is the town of Colwyn Bay, but that is a place that is rarely mentioned (except in the most abusive terms) in anything I ever write. They have a football team that sold out its nationality for the basest of motives - that of money. And if ever any one or any organisation deserves to be struck by a thunderbolt from the heavens the it's that lot over there and I pray each night that such a thing might happen in the very near future.

In the late Spring of 2019 Colwyn Bay, after many years of battling against rising travelling expenses and dwindling crowds, finally announced that they wished to join the Welsh pyramid. At its Annual General Meeting that Summer, the Welsh FA accepted Colwyn Bay's application and placed them in the Second Tier, where the club acquitted itself admirably in its first season.

Credit given where credit is due. Better late than never.

I'm trying to rack my brains as to where this pier might be. It's too close to be at Bangor and I can't think of anywhere else along here that has one. If you have any ideas about this, then please . Failing that, next time I'm around here I'll have to go for a good prowl around and see what else I can unearth.

But this is always half the trouble. Each time I ever go anywhere I'm always pushed for time and when I search around for stuff at a later date then the more I learn the more questions I need to ask. Just like Nansen in fact, who said in his book In Northern Mists "... the more extensive my studies became, the more riddles I perceived - riddle after riddle led to new riddles and this drew me on ..."

back to top